Modern, size inclusive crochet designs
This blog contains everything from tips & tricks for makers, testers and designers to yarn reviews to showcases of pattern testers for a variety of my designs. If you’re interested in a specific category only - click the links below!
Free Patterns
Crochet Tips for Makers
Designing & Testing Tips
Pattern Tester Showcases
Happy crocheting,
Courtney
Hello crochet pal!
I’m so excited to welcome a new piece to my Mya line - the Mya Mittens! Mya is inspired by her sister patterns: The Mya Sweater, Mya Hat, & Mya Shawl, all of which I designed between 2018 & 2021. Click here to check out the full Mya series of designs!
If you’re looking for a smoother, ad-free version of this pattern, it is available in my shop & Ravelry store here:
https://www.ilovetinderbox.com/shop/mya-mittens
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mya-mittens
If you have any questions about this pattern please email me at: courtney@ilovetinderbox.com as comments on this post and DMs on social media may get missed!
Want to know when I release new (& free) patterns? Sign up for my email list here.
This pattern is also available as a free video tutorial over on my YouTube channel, if video is more of a helpful medium for you check it out here.
This pattern is great for a beginner who might be ready to try out some new skills (e.g. The spike stitch).
For my Mya Mittens I used Lion Brand Basic Stitch yarn in the colours Pine Heather (Colour A), Ivory (Colour B) and Deco Rose (Colour C). This pattern, along with the Mya Hat are part of a kit from Lion Brand. Click here to get the kit which includes the PDF versions of both the mittens & hat!
Not sure what yarn you want to use? My top three rules are that it must fit your budget, you must like the feel of it against your skin and it MUST be the same weight as the pattern - in this case worsted! Want to know everything I suggest when it comes to choosing yarn for crochet wearables? Check out my blog post all about it here or my YouTube video on this topic here.
Now let’s get crocheting!
Finished Hand Circumference
• 22.6 cm (8.9 inches)
Finished Wrist Circumference (unstretched)
• 13.2 cm (5.2 inches)
Finished Length (not including cuff)
• 20.3 cm (8 inches)
There is only one adult woman’s size for the mittens, however size modifications can be made in a few ways: 1. Changing the number of stitches of the hand by +/-8 (changes circumfernce by almost 5cm (2 inches)). 2. Adding or removing length to the cuff by changing the number of chains you make in row 1, 3. Adding or removing length to the hand by doing more or fewer rounds in total, and 4. Changing the weight of yarn/gauge - but you will have to do the math to figure it out!
• 3.75 mm crochet hook
• Approximately the following amounts of worsted weight yarn: Colour A (cuff, bottom of hand & thumb): 130 metres (140 yards), Colour B (mid hand) & C (top of hand): 50 metres (55 yards) each. Sample uses Lionbrand Basic Stitch in the colours A: Pine Heather, B: Ivory, C: Deco Rose, click here to shop
• Measuring tape or gauge square
• Yarn needle & scissors
• Hand: 9 stitches x 11 rounds in a blocked 5 cm (2 inch) square of SC in the round (not sure how to gauge in the round? No problem - here’s how!)
• Cuff: 5 stitches x 7 rows in an unstretched 2.5 cm (1 inch) square of SL ST BLO, worked flat
2SC: Work 2 stitches in the same space, increase
2tog: Work 2 stitches together, decrease
BLO: Back loops only
CH(s): Chain(s)
rep: Repeat
SC: Single crochet
SK: Skip
SL ST: Slip stitch
SP-#: Spike stitch, # indicates how many rows down the spike stitch is worked into
ST(s): Stitch(es)
<Stitch counts> are only listed when they change throughout the pattern! CHs at the start of rows/rounds do not count as stitches throughout.
Row 1
With Colour A, CH 15. SL ST into the back bump of the 2nd CH from hook and each CH across. <14>
Row 2
CH 1, turn. SL ST BLO across.
Rows 3-35
Rep Row 2 until you have a total of 35 rows.
Row 36/Seaming Cuff
SL ST through the BLO of the last round and the BLO of the CHs from Row 1 to seam together the cuff. Do not fasten off.
Round 1
CH 1. Work 1 SC into the side of every row of the cuff around. Join with a tight SL ST. <36>
Round 2
CH 1, do not turn on this or any round of the mitten. SC around. Join with a tight SL ST.
Round 3
CH 1. *SC 8, 2SC*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <40>
Rounds 4 & 5
Rep Round 2 twice.
Round 6
CH 1. *SC 9, 2SC*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <44>
Rounds 7 & 8
Rep Round 2 twice.
Round 9
CH 1. *SC 10, 2SC*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <48>
Rounds 10-18
Rep Round 2 nine times.
Round 19
CH 1. SC 18, CH 4, SK 12, SC remaining 18 STs. Join with a tight SL ST. Fasten off Colour A. <40>
Round 20
Attach Colour B, CH 1. *SC 1, SP-2, SP-4, SP-6, SP-8, SP-6, SP-4, SP-2*, rep * once, SC, SP-2, SC into each of the 4 CHs, SP-4, SP-2, rep * twice. Join with a tight SL ST.
Rounds 21-31
Rep Round 2 eleven times. Fasten off Colour B.
Round 32
Attach Colour C. CH 1. *SC 1, SP-2, SP-4, SP-6, SP-8, SP-6, SP-4, SP-2*, rep * 4 more times around. Join with a tight SL ST.
Round 33
Rep Round 2 once.
Round 34
CH 1. *SC 6, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <35>
Rounds 35 & 36
Rep Round 2 twice.
Round 37
CH 1. *SC 5, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <30>
Rounds 38 & 39
Rep Round 2 twice.
Round 40
CH 1. *SC 4, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <25>
Round 41
Rep Round 2 once.
Round 42
CH 1. *SC 3, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <20>
Round 43
CH 1. *SC 2, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <15>
Round 44
CH 1. *SC 1, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. Fasten off leaving at least a 10cm (4 inch) tail. <10>
Closing Top
Weave the long tail through every other stitch of last round, pull tight to close the hole and secure end with a tight knot on the inside of your mitten.
Round 1
Attach Colour A between thumb & hand. CH 1, SC around thumb opening working 1 SC into each CH & each SC around. Join with a tight SL ST. <16>
Round 2
CH 1. SC around. Join with a tight SL ST.
Rounds 3-9
Rep Round 2 seven times.
Round 10
CH 1. *SC 2, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. <12>
Round 11
CH 1. *SC 1, SC2tog*, rep * around. Join with a tight SL ST. Fasten off leaving at least a 10cm (4 inch) tail. <8>
Closing Top
Weave the long tail through every other stitch of last round, pull tight to close the hole and secure end with a tight knot on the inside of your mitten. Weave in ends.
Repeat all instructions for 2nd mitten!
Thank you so much for making the Mya Mittens! Tag me @ilovetinderbox on your favourite social media platform (I’m on almost all of them!) so I can see your finished product. If you have any questions please email me courtney@ilovetinderbox.com
Until the next one, happy crocheting!
Courtney
Hello friend!
Welcome to my first ever FREE pattern here on my blog! A few years ago I released the Stevie Beanie in a fingering weight yarn and have been wanted to make a warmer, squishier, faster version of it since! I’m so happy to introduce you to the Stevie Beanie in DK!
If you’re looking for a smoother, ad-free version of this pattern, it is available in my shop & Ravelry store here:
https://www.ilovetinderbox.com/shop/stevie-beanie-dk
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stevie-beanie-dk
If you have any questions about this pattern please email me at: courtney@ilovetinderbox.com as comments on this post and DMs on social media may get missed!
Want to know when I release new (& free) patterns? Sign up for my email list here.
This pattern is also available as a free video tutorial over on my YouTube channel, if video is more of a helpful medium for you check it out here.
This pattern is great for a beginner who might be ready to try out a new skill (magic loop!) or a new stitch (extended single crochet). The most difficult part is the first round - then it just gets progressively easier and easier as you go.
For my sample I used the incomparable Yeti Yak DK base from the colour wizard herself, Christa from The Frosted Stitch. I used the colourway Purple Basil from her Spices collection (available yearly from ). If you missed the window of availability for Spices, do not fret - Christa has hundreds of stunning colourways and so many delicious bases to choose from. Shop The Frosted Stitch here.
Not sure what yarn you want to use? My top three rules are that it must fit your budget, you must like the feel of it against your skin and it MUST be the same weight as the pattern - in this case DK! Alternatively, DK can be achieved by holding two strands of fingering weight yarn together. Want to know everything I suggest when it comes to choosing yarn for crochet wearables? Check out my blog post all about it here.
Alright - let’s get started on Stevie!
Finished Hat Circumference
• S: 19.6 inches (49.8 cm)
• M: 21.3 inches (54.1 cm)
• L: 23.1 inches (58.7 cm)
Sizes are noted as S(M, L) throughout the pattern. To choose your size, select the size that is approximately 0.5-1.5 inches (1.5-3.8 cm) less than the circumference of your head at the point you’d like the brim to sit. Sample is size Medium on a 22 inch (55.8 cm) head circumference. You can easily customize the length of your hat by doing more or fewer rounds after the increases are complete!
• 3.5 mm crochet hook
• Approximately 205(230, 260) metres or 225(250, 285) yards of DK weight yarn
• 5 stitch markers
• Measuring tape or gauge square
• Yarn needle
• 9 stitches x 8 rounds in a blocked 2 inch (5 cm) square of ESC in the round (not sure how to gauge in the round? No problem - here’s how!)
2ESC: Work 2 stitches in the same space, increase
BOR: Beginning of round
CH: Chain
SC: Single crochet
ESC: Extended single crochet
SK: Skip
SL ST: Slip stitch
ST: Stitch
<Stitch counts> are only listed when they change throughout the pattern!
Round 1
Create a magic loop, CH 1, work 1 SC and 11 ESC into the loop. Do not join with a SL ST. <12>
Round 2
SC into the top of the SC, ESC, 3ESC into next ST, *ESC 2, 3ESC*, rep * twice more around. <20>
Mark the first ST of the round (BOR) & the centre ESC in each of the 4 clusters of 3ESC (See Image).
Round 3
*ESC to next marker, 3ESC into marked ST (replace marker into centre ST of 3ESC cluster)*, rep * around, ESC any remaining STs before the BOR (no inc in BOR marker). <28; reps inc by 8>
To Round 4(5, 6)
Repeat Round 3 1 (2, 3) more times. <36(44, 52)>
Round 5(6, 7)
ESC around, replacing each marker into the ST worked into the marked ST.
Round 6(7, 8)
Rep Round 3. <44(52, 60)>
To Round 12(13, 14)
Alternate reps of Round 5(6, 7) and Round 3 three more times each. <68(76, 84)>
To Round 14(15, 16)
Rep Round 5(6, 7) twice.
Round 15(16, 17)
Rep Round 3. <76(84, 92)>
To Round 18(19, 20)
Rep Round 5(6, 7) three times.
Round 19(20, 21)
Rep Round 3. <84(92, 100)>
To Round 23(24, 25)
Rep Round 5(6, 7) four times.
Round 24(25, 26)
*ESC to next marker, 2ESC into marked ST (remove marker)*, rep * 3 times around (no inc in BOR marker). <88(96, 104)>
To Round 45(49,53)
Continue with rounds of ESC until you reach the round count for your size, or desired length keeping in mind any growth expected from blocking.
Finishing
To even the jog in the STs, SK 1 ST, SL ST into next ST (See Images). Fasten off, weave in ends.
Blocking
Block your hat for optimum comfort and fit!
Thank you so much for making the Stevie Beanie! Tag me @ilovetinderbox on your favourite social media platform (I’m on almost all of them!) so I can see your finished product. If you have any questions please email me courtney@ilovetinderbox.com
Until the next one, happy crocheting!
Courtney
So, you’re feeling ready to crochet (or knit) your first garment – CONGRATULATIONS! This blog post is going to help you ensure that you are ready and hopefully help you build up your toolbox a little to ensure the first garment you make is a huge success! Also available in video version on my Youtube channel.
Millie is a staple in your fall wardrobe this year! She’s perfect for layering on the cool mornings and nights. This top down raglan is intermediate or adventurous beginner friendly! She’s written in two lengths - cropped and full/hip length. My testers have showcased how this pattern works on different bodies, with different fibres & colours, and in the two different lengths! Check out their versions and exactly what yarn & how much they used and where to follow along with their crochet journey.
Hello & welcome back to the blog! Today is part 2 of the pattern testing series, but this time we’re chatting pattern testing from a designer’s perspective. I’m covering the dos and don’ts, how to run a test from start to finish, and diving deep into the hot topic of whether we should be financially compensating pattern testers for their work!
Spencer was a dress I designed to wear to my friends wedding back in June - so I decided to name it after his new wife! Both the top and skirt are worked from the top down so are easily to alter their length! My testers have showcased how this pattern works on different bodies, with different fibres & colours! Check out their different versions and exactly what yarn & how much they used and where to follow along with their crochet journey.
In today’s blog post we are going to be talking pattern testing! First, we will do a brief overview of what pattern testing is & why it is important. Then, we will get into the nitty gritty of being a pattern tester – from how to become one in the first place, to being the best rockstar pattern tester that every designer is going to want to work with! Much of the focus of this post will be around garments and wearable items, but all the non-sizing specific rules apply to all tests whether you’re making a crocheted sweater or an amigurumi!
This tank top is worked from the top down, without any seams - it’s all joined as you go! Since it is top-down construction you can easily customize the length. My testers have showcased how this pattern works on different bodies, with different fibres & colours! Check out their different versions and exactly what yarn & how much they used and where to follow along with their crochet journey.
My testers have showcased how this pattern works on different bodies, with different fibres and some variety in skirt length! Check out their different versions and exactly what yarn & how much they used, as well a couple testers chose not to do the elastic waistband so you can see how it looks with and without the elastic (it is noted if they did not use it).
One of my most frequently asked questions from makers wanting to break into designing is “How do I know if my idea is unique enough?”. This can be both a difficult and an easy question to answer so let’s dive into the nuances of ensuring that your design idea does not exist already OR is different enough from an existing design so you can feel good about publishing it!
The Daisy Shorts were a long time coming! I first tried making this design a year and a half ago and couldn’t get it quite right. Thankfully, with time and patience I was able to pick her back up and get her out into the world finally! With the help of my lovely testers, Daisy was made SO much better. The pattern is entirely based on your unique measurements. You input 4 of your measurements into the spreadsheet and it populates the numbers you need to make your shorts. You can also change your desired rise and pant leg length.
My testers have showcased how this pattern works on different bodies, with different rises and pant leg length. Some even did a cuffed hem on the legs which I adore! Check out their hard work and Daisy shorts in this post!
If you find yourself wondering how on Earth designers make money, thinking “what does “affiliate link” mean?” or wondering which platform to purchase a pattern on to make sure as much of your hard earned income gets into the pocket of an indie designer – then you’ve come to the right place!
As a maker and pattern enthusiast it may be difficult to know how to best support your fave designers, and we don’t blame you! It’s a confusing world to navigate. I’m going to run through all the ways designers make money and how you can help support designers – from things that will cost a bit more to things that are absolutely FREE! Yes, you heard it – there are FREE ways to support designers!
Welcome back for part 5 of the Gauge Week blog series. Today’s post explains the importance of blocking your swatches. We touch on how different yarns and fibres block differently so you need to block every time. They we talk about how to use your pre and post blocked gauge while working up the pattern!
Welcome back to part 4 of the Gauge Week blog series! Today is probably the most important day yet – how to adjust your gauge! This blog post will cover when and how to change your hook and how to adjust when no matter which hook you try either the height or width is off. Every gauge IS achievable and we show you how!
It’s day 3 of Gauge Week – the day a lot of you have been waiting for! Today’s topic is how to gauge in the round.
Typically, we gauge in the round when the pattern is worked in the round. This is common in yoke style sweaters, hats, socks, and amigurumi, among other things. When you work in the round your stitches all face the same direction. The stitches can behave slightly differently when worked flat versus in the round – that is why it is important to gauge in the round if it is specified that way in the pattern. Find out two different ways to gauge in the round in today’s post!
Welcome to day 2 of Gauge Week! Today’s post covers a basic gauge swatch – one that’s worked flat, in rows, back and forth. A plain and simple gauge swatch is what most patterns call for so that is where we are going to start!
A flat gauge swatch like we’re going to learn today can be done in 5-20 minutes depending on the weight of the yarn/hook size you are using, and can save you from creating a whole piece that ends up being ill-fitting. I know, I know we’re all super excited when we find the perfect pattern and the squishiest yarn that we just want to hop right in, but gauging first can save you a LOT of frogging later.
Welcome to the start of Gauge Week Day 1: What is “Gauge” and Why Do We Do It?
Very basically, gauge is the size of our stitches. Every single person crochets slightly differently than the next – we hold our hooks differently, we tension our yarn differently, we sit differently while crocheting – the smallest things can affect gauge in a big way! The type of fibre or yarn we use to make something can also affect the size of our stitches – acrylic, wool, alpaca, cotton, superwash, bamboo – they all hold onto stitches differently. But don’t let that scare you! You are always welcome to use a different fibre than the designer – you just need to swatch in your chosen fibre.