Hello & welcome back to the blog! Today is part 2 of the pattern testing series, but this time we’re chatting pattern testing from a designer’s perspective. I’m covering the dos and don’ts, how to run a test from start to finish, and diving deep into the hot topic of whether we should be financially compensating pattern testers for their work!
Testing vs tech editing
Tech editing is when a professional tech editor looks over your pattern for errors. Tech editors thoroughly check math, grammar and inconsistencies in formatting which is very valuable if you are prone to typos like me or feel a bit insecure with your grading. Tech editors do not make a sample from the pattern though, so while they can do their best to ensure it would, theoretically work and fit different sizes, the only way to guarantee fit is through testing.
As I said last week, testing is where you give the rough draft of your pattern to a group of people representing a variety of sizes within your pattern, for them to create a piece for themselves from the rough pattern. It is the only surefire way to know that your design is going to fit other people as it is intended!
So, lets hop into how to run an effective pattern test, from a designers perspective:
Testing Calls & Tester Lists
The most common type of testing call that people see are what I call “open” testing calls. Meaning that the designer posts somewhere publicly, like Instagram, Facebook, or Ravelry, that they have something in need of testing. I find this type of testing call to be a bit overwhelming for me as sometimes I will get hundreds of applications. This type of call is great for getting a variety of testers and for ensuring you get good testing coverage if you’re newer to designing/don’t have a large social media following.
There are also forums on Ravelry and Facebook groups dedicated entirely to pattern testing so if you’re having difficult finding testers in one place, try other places!
I personally prefer using what I call “closed” testing calls. Basically, I have an email list of around 250 testers of various sizes that I send testing calls out to. Around once per year I open this list up for new applicants. This helps me to pre-vet people for testing and limits applications, which makes each testing call a little bit less overwhelming for me.
With closed testing calls sometimes I don’t get any of my regular testers interested in testing a certain piece. If/when this happens I will open up the call to my Instagram for whichever sizes I need coverage in.
In the end, how you manage your testing calls is entirely up to your personal preference! There is no right or wrong way as long as you’re providing potential testers with everything they need to know about the test and doing your best to get coverage for all sizes.
What happens if you can’t find someone for all sizes?
If I don’t have all sizes covered after I do my closed email call, then I will do an open call to my broadcast channel or stories on Instagram or in my IG stories. But, sometimes, some of the more rare sizes don’t get any applications. If this happens you can:
1. Get a tech edit done. This way you know all the numbers are correct for the sizes that weren’t covered in testing, or go over those sizes specifically with a fine-toothed comb.
2. Put in the listing which sizes are untested so if someone in those sizes is looking to buy the pattern they can “apply” to test it after it’s already available for purchase. Essentially the designer will give them the pattern and operate their making of it similar to a pattern test to gather their feedback specific to their size.
At the end of the day, not finding testing coverage for a certain size should not prevent you from releasing a pattern. Just do your best!
What to include in call/application
All testing calls should be done once your final sample is complete. Your testers need to be able to see what it is they are making. I have seen some testing calls based on sketches and swatches, or some “secret” tests where the testers don’t even know what they’re making. Transparency is key! Not having a final sample to show potential testers is not a fair way to go about pattern testing.
If you are contractually obligated to keep a design “secret” it is usually okay with yarn companies for you to show it to testers – just ask! Sometimes I am working with a secret colourway yet to be released – in this case, I make sure to tell my email list of testers that it is secret and to not share. If I have to do a public call I will share photos in black and white!
You should also be including yarn estimates for each size, a timeline for the test (when is it being sent to testers, when are notes/photos due?), an agreement that if they’re chosen they will complete the test and submit photos on time, and any other information that is pertinent to the test.
Determining timelines
It is important that we give adequate time for testers to complete their project, especially when it comes to something like a garment! Here is the formula that I use for determining how long a test should be:
Total metres of yarn required for the largest size / 350-450 metres per week + 1 week (for gathering materials/blocking/photos etc) + additional time for any challenging portions of the pattern (like lots of shaping, lace work, colour work etc).
For example:
If I have a basic sweater that the largest size will use approximately 2000 metres of yarn. We take that 2000 and divide it by 400, which equals 5. But, we’re adding an extra week for gathering materials, blocking and taking photos, so 6 weeks. This is what I would consider the MINIMUM number of weeks for a testing period for a project of this size. If you’re ever in doubt – round up!
Choosing Testers
For garments and wearable designs it is important to have testers representing all, or at least a wide range, of the sizes available in the pattern. Having testers for each size ensures that the math is correct for that size, the fit is correct for that size and for your customers to see how it looks on each size.
All of my garments are made for the nine Craft Yarn Council sizes and I ideally would love to have two testers per size. Sometimes I will allow for only one tester in a certain size if I have had that tester many times before and know they are reliable. If the testers are all new to me I may have up to three testers all making the same size.
It is important to have a good mix of testers in each testing group. Having testers who have tested for you before mixed with those who have tested for other designers mixed with those brand new to testing is the best way to go! Testers of different experience levels are going to find different things in a pattern that need editing
In addition to testing experience, it’s a great strategy to have testers of different skill levels in each testing group too. Have some people who will find the pattern easy, and some that will find it a challenge. This will help you to provide the most clarity in the final pattern. That being said, if the pattern is an intermediate or advanced design, it is not a good idea to bring on someone who is brand new to crocheting.
The next thing I look for from a potential tester are their photos! I love to see a tester with a public Instagram account who regularly posts photos of their finished objects. Seeing this gives me insight into the testers skill level and whether they can take photos that showcase the finished objects & themselves well.
Having a public Instagram account is not mandatory for testing, but it is preferred for me and therefore is heavily favoured in my application process. Each designer operates their tests differently so it is entirely up to you, as a designer, what standards you set for your testers!
What to send to your chosen testers
When deciding what to send to your chosen testers the more you can provide for them the better! The most important thing to send is the rough draft of the pattern. Being clear on expectations you have from testers at the start of a test is also a priority. You should let testers know how to communicate questions, where to provide feedback, what you want from them in regards to notes and photos, what they need to do if they find an error, how long they can expect you to take fixing an error or answering their questions et cetera.
I also love to include a rough timeline of the test as to what point of the project testers should be at by a certain date. A lot of testers find it handy to keep themselves on track and I love it because when I check in with testers part way through a test I can quickly tell who is falling behind and contact them directly to see if I can assist them at all to get caught up.
Non-Negotiables in Pattern Testing
1. Gauge
As a designer it is crucial to ensure our testers are achieving gauge throughout the making of their piece. Incorrect gauge affects the size of the final object so if it is a garment the piece is not going to fit as it’s intended. The amount of yarn that it takes to make a piece is also affected by variances in gauge. If the gauge is too tight it’ll use less yarn, and if it’s too loose it’ll use more yarn. The two most important piece of pattern testing for me are checking fit and determining yarn usage for the final pattern and since both are so heavily impacted by gauge this means that we need to be getting testers to achieve and maintain accurate gauge.
2. Sizes
For garments or any wearable items is important for designers to be assigning the sizes to testers based on the testers’ (or the person they’re making for’s) body measurements. For example, if a sweater has a fair bit of ease, some designers will allow testers to shift down a size in order to have less ease in their sweater. I do not allow this because it will look much different with a full size less in ease! We want the testers pieces to fit as intended!
3. Modifications
Modifications should not be allowed during the testing of a pattern. Allowing modifications would mean that the tester photos are not representative of the pattern as it is written. You should not be allowing testers to change the number of stitches or rows throughout the pattern, nor allowing testers to use a different weight of yarn. For me, this even applies to colour blocking or striping unless it’s specifically written in the pattern. Why? Because customers may then have the expectation that the pattern will contain instructions for these modifications.
The only exception I make to this is if someone’s body measurements don’t line up with the CYC sizes (e.g. their bicep is 2 inches larger than the corresponding bust measurement). In this case, I will assist in a fit modification for that tester. These types of modifications help to build flexibility into the pattern and show that you actually care about being size inclusive for testers and customers alike!
Communication with Testers
Throughout testing I set up a group chat on Instagram for testers to use as the primary communication tool with me throughout testing. It’s the last thing I check before bed at night and the first thing I check in the morning so that testers are never waiting for days at a time without answers. If checking in regularly is not something you’re able to do, that is okay, you will need to tell your testers that at the start of testing how long they can typically expect to wait to hear from you AND add extra time to your testing timeframe in order to ensure testers can still pause when issues come up, wait for your answers/fixes, and still finish on time!
You do not need to use Instagram to communicate with testers; you can use any way you prefer! Email, Facebook group, Discord, Ravelry forum – there are many options available. You just need to ensure you are accessible to your testers and they know what to do when they have a question and how long they can expect to have to wait to hear back from you.
Tools I use
The three tools I use the most in pattern testing are: Google Forms, Google Drive and Instagram. I use Google Forms for both my tester applications and the tester notes. My favourite feature of Google Forms is the ability to turn the answers into a spreadsheet with just the click of a button (Just click the “Link to Sheets” button under the “Replies” tab of your form - Image below of what this looks like!). Doing this you can quickly sort applicants and notes by size, by answers to certain questions, alphabetically, anything you want! It also allows you to see all the same answers in the same column. So, when I am compiling notes and making final edits I can look at everyone’s yarn usage at once, then everyone’s math edits at once, etc.
Another favourite feature of Google Forms is the photo folder! If you have your testers upload their photos and video clip directly to the note form Google will create a folder just for those files (Just click the “View Folder” button beside the photo upload question - image of what this looks like below)! It’s so handy to have all your tester photos in one place instead of getting some via email and some on Instagram, Google Forms will put it all in one Drive folder for you.
I use Google Drive as the central hub for each test. I create a folder for each new test. In this folder I include the rough draft of the pattern, my testing guidelines, and the outline for the individual test, which has the timeline I mentioned earlier as well as the testing deadline, public launch date of the pattern and link to the note form.
The last tool I use is Instagram. At the start of each test I create a group chat for all my testers for a specific design. They can use the chat to ask questions, share progress and just get to know one another. I do not make this a compulsory part of testing, as I know group chats can get overwhelming pretty quickly. I also always send out an email to testers if there are critical edits to the pattern so that they are aware to be using the latest version of the rough draft.
As far as other designers, I’ve seen some use Google docs for their patterns in testing so that testers can put their notes & edits directly on the document. Personally, I don’t love this because I don’t want one testers’ notes confusing another, or an incorrect edit to be made without me noticing. I’ve also heard of other designers using Canva for pattern editing, and Facebook Groups or group chats and Discord for communicating with testers throughout.
What to include in note form
It’s important to get as comprehensive as possible notes from your testers. In your notes form you want to make sure you’re asking testers for their name, email and size they completed first. You’ll also want to know how much yarn they used and any details about that yarn you think you want to know – fibre, colour, company or dyer et cetera.
I always ask testers which hook they used to achieve gauge and the gauge on their final piece. While technically their gauge should be correct, sometimes testers don’t achieve gauge and as a designer you need to know that because it can explain fit issues and yarn usage variations (testers: make sure you’re getting accurate gauge please!). Then obviously you want to ask testers about any errors that may still remain in the pattern, any areas that could use a little clarification, measurements of their final piece and how they feel about the fit on their body, photos, and I include a catch all question at the end for if testers have anything else they think is important to include in their notes.
Compensation
This one is a hot topic! How should we be compensating testers?
Currently, the industry standard is to provide the testers with the final, fully edited PDF of the pattern that they tested. Most designers will also allow the testers to choose one other pattern of theirs to receive for free. Sometimes a yarn company or indie dyer who provided the yarn for the design may offer discounted, or on the rare occasion free, yarn for testers to use for their samples too! It never hurts as a designer or a tester to ask about any yarn support or yarn discounts available in testing a certain design.
Financial compensation is where things can get very touchy. I would absolutely love to be able to financially compensate testers for the time they put into testing my designs for me. Unfortunately, the knit and crochet pattern world is wildly undervalued due to it’s history of being “women’s work” in a time when families could live off a single (male) income and women stayed home and crocheted and knitted sweaters for their family. It is still an industry where people expect patterns for free, so designers have to underprice their work in order to sell patterns at a price customers will still pay for (Usually $5-15). Side note: This is not the customers or designers fault – it is a larger, societal issue linked to flaws in our patriarchal system. More on this in a future blog post!
All that being said, let’s say designers were to adequately compensate testers at $20 per hour (an “okay” starting wage in North America in 2023) for a sweater that takes 60 hours to complete. This would cost the designer $1200 per tester. For a garment in all 9 sizes of the Craft Yarn Council standard sizes with two testers per size this would be $21,600 per test – which is so far and above what the vast majority of designers are making per pattern. For myself, I create 12 new garment designs per year, which means pattern testing costs would be $259,200 and that doesn’t even include any yarn costs.
These numbers are so far and above what I am making in my designing business, so financial compensation for testers is just something I cannot afford right now. If I do start making WAY more in pattern sales I would love to start offering yarn support or small financial bonuses to testers, as I am not sure I will ever be able to afford adequate compensation at $259k per year!
In Conclusion
Pattern testing can sound like a daunting task for a new designer! I hope today’s blog post helped to de-mystify pattern testing from the designers’ perspective a little and to answer some of your questions! If you have any other questions about how to run an effect crochet or knit pattern test leave a comment below or email me at courtney@ilovetinderbox.com.
Thanks for reading & happy crocheting,
Courtney